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How to tie a horse
Safe system for fixing the horse in the pasture. HOW TO CORRECTLY BELT A HORSE 1. General rule: eye level and arm length. A horse is tied at about the…

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How to tie a horse

Safe system for fixing the horse in the pasture.

HOW TO CORRECTLY BELT A HORSE

1. General rule: eye level and arm length. A horse is tied at about the level of its eyes and the length of a person’s arm.

The rope (chambur) should not be too long so that the horse could not get tangled in it or step foot in.

3. Always tie the knob into the easy-to-open knot. Keep a knife nearby so that you can cut the rope at any time.

4. Never tie a horse to a halter and bridle ring. With a jerk, the horse may dislocate its jaw or damage its neck, lips and mouth.

5. Tie the horse to something strong and fixed (not loose).

6. Tie the horse away from other horses, sharp objects and obstacles.

7. Tie the horse away from sharp corners, which can cause injury.

8. Do not tie the horse to a horse carriage not attached to the machine. A horse will easily move an empty horse attached to nothing if the animal, for example, is bitten by a wasp. In this case, not only the horse carriage can suffer, but also the horse itself and, even worse, a man.

9. Do not leave a horse tied in a horse carriage unattended. Not accustomed to prolonged transport of horses can experience an attack of claustrophobia and begin to get nervous.
The softest and most commonly used method of fixing a horse is decoupling. There are several options for attaching junctions: there can be two attached to the opposite walls of the stable and equipped, as a rule, with carbines; there can be one interchange with a ring through which a chumbur passes, which, in turn, is tied to a ring on the opposite side of the aisle. Interchanges fix the horse’s head, preventing it from moving sideways, going forward or backing away.

There are two things to consider when using interchanges. Firstly, the horse must be left at least a little freedom of maneuver: the denouement should in no case be tight. Tight fixation can provoke a panic attack in the horse. And secondly, there should be an opportunity to instantly release the horse: if she is frightened there is no other way to calm her down. Carabiners are best suited for this, the design of which allows them to be unfastened even with strong rope tension: any hooked and carabiner carabiners CANNOT be used, since they can only be unfastened when the rope is loose, so if the horse starts to break from the leash, you you can’t do anything. Another way is all kinds of knots that are easy to open if pulled by the free tip. The denouement is not shoelaces, just as you can’t tie!

What are the interchanges used for? And for everything. Whatever you do with the horse, it is better to remove it from the stall first. It is necessary to clean, saddle, forge, and carry out veterinary processing at the roundabout. Firstly, in a stall you cannot reliably fix a horse: even tied with a chumbur to the grate, it has the ability to walk, shake its head and dodge using the full length of the chumbur – and it is always better to prevent resistance than to deal with its consequences. And secondly, the stall is a “horse house” – there the horse eats, sleeps, rests, there she should feel as calm and relaxed as possible – in short, completely safe from any encroachment.

Fixing a horse on a pasture: fetters and a leash. It is not uncommon for the owners to take their horses to the summer cottage – closer to fresh air, grass and a river … But we must not forget: what is the norm for a village horse can be a real stress for a sports horse. So you need to approach cords and bindings carefully. Not knowing the put, for the first time a hobbled sports horse can start to beat, fall, and to approach it and unfasten the fetters is a problem … You must be careful with the harness too – you cannot know exactly how the horse will behave, entangled in a rope. Best of all – “graze” with her, holding a cord or a cupboard in her hands, no matter how much you would like the horse to spend more time on the pasture, rather than standing in the stall. First, it’s worth checking how the attached horse behaves … In any case, the rope should not be so long that the horse can “wrap itself” in it, and should have a “weak link” so that it can untie with a really strong jerk or tear. Better a horse breaks off the leash than starts to panic in a panic if the rope is pulled over its legs.

Be very careful about rope halters! It should be gossip taking into account all the rules for compiling nodes. The rope halter easily breaks in the leash area. It is not suitable for grazing. Such a halter is dangerous with a reason and a rope, especially if the horse is left unattended.

These are the consequences of abandoned horses grazing on a rope halter!

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